How can you visit Marrakech and not visit the infamous souks? Jemma- el Fnaa square that’s calm by day and enchanting by night. In fact, how can you visit Marrakech and not stay a few nights within those red walls of the medina when to truly experience Marrakech, is to submissively explore the culture of its people- heavy on ‘submit’.
As much as I’m a fan of travel vlogs, just like doing anything for the first time, it won’t always turn out the way so-so’s did. Watching vlogs pre travel has a way of providing insight and relief, but putting your guard down and being prepared for the unexpected is always my motto.
Marrakech is a deceivingly large city and one of the four Morocco capital cities known to drive in tourism. Its elegant 5 star hotels have been known to host public figures of excellence in politics, fashion and the entertainment industry; Nelson Mandela, Winston Churchill and Yves St Laurent to name a few who said ‘this city taught me color’. As a creative, I can attest to there never being a dull moment of inspiration in the red city however, I’ve always preferred hotels out of the old part. For first timers, it has been recommended to stay within that territories and I strongly agree. There’s something special about staying in a Riad or Hotel within close proximity to the medina, it allows you to explore everywhere daunting as it may be with aggressive souk keepers (market stall owners) or fraudulent guides (locals trying their luck at showing you around ‘for free’ only to demand money afterwards). But once you’ve done the riads with beautiful courtyards and roof terraces overlooking beautiful views of old & traditional, ancient biblical times like, you’ve done it.
For those who prefer a spacious feel with optional pools and mix of character, the city is a playground for different accommodation. I personally feel more relaxed in the lesser chaos of the environment though I need to stress that nothing beats the look of color around the souks. The smell of the different food; spices, fresh bread, sweets and perfume. The noise, the endless mopeds arrogantly squeezing past in the narrow alleyways, the prayer calls and watching men go to pray, the warm faces of the women, the sunlight beaming through ceilings onto the pathways as one shop keeper hassles and the others call out ‘hello Serena Williams’. The cheek! But I’ve heard it all and it wouldn’t be Marrakech if it wasn’t that way. After all, every country, city and town has a definitive character about it, this one is just easier to navigate if you take it in without offence- taxi drivers are another nightmare. Who could possibly be cheerful paying 20€ for a 10 min trip? ‘Its night-time’ he said, looking proud of himself that he’d just conned two foreigners at least 15€ that could have covered a mouth watering lamb tajine! The only time 20€ may be worth a taxi ride is having taken into consideration my security and comfort, that seat belts and the air con operate, eeeespeciallyyy on those hot Moroccan summer afternoons. My go to since 2018 is Travel Plans Marrakech https://www.travelplansmarrakech.com/ their services vary from airport to local transfers, tours to inter city excursions. This time, a 23 minutes journey led from Boulevard Mohamed VI to La Palmeraie, Jnane Tamsna, the yellow hotel.
Passing through the familiar view of palm trees from a quad bike excursion we’d just freshened up from – 2 hours prior, we drove through a suburban area with big gated homes hidden behind off pink walls covered in a line of colorful blossom trees. Young girls cycled past and suddenly more of them appeared, so oblivious to our perspective- the tourist looking into the local’s life. My imaginative mind wandered away as they casually rode together in conversation, ‘girl school’ our driver informed us, which opened up small talk on schools in Marrakech. The setting quickly changed into a village- the Marrakech I adore, perhaps that it reminds me of rural community life in parts of South Africa.
Out of nowhere I exclaimed,’Dar Sabra Hotel oh my gosh!’ Its one of the most stunning boutique hotels I’ve had for years on my ‘to visit list’ in my indecisiveness. Suddenly, seeing beyond the walls of commercial Marrakech into the palmeraie landscape, this mind map birthed from years of wondering came together and just as the road seemed empty, the yellow architecture spoke loud in visual dialect.
Jnane Tamsna is a boutique hotel owned by the Martins, but a face we see more often in connection is of a striking lady who holds just as much impression in person as in the articles I’ve come across on hers and her husband’s success. ‘Since I was 7 I wanted to be an architect, it was really an obsession and it was a big shock for me to know that I would not be able to fulfill my dream, and Morocco gave me the opportunity to build and design.’ Meryanne Loum- Martin.
I recently discovered that Meryanne is THE ONLY black female hotel owner in Marrakech and here I’ve been with this blind ambition since 2017 after my first ever encounter of the city, that as a retired 60-something old, I’d have purchased a Riad in Marrakech to run as a business. Her family history is quite fascinating, all connecting to this place. I’d been telling M about her and how funny it would be if she showed up, under the impression she’d be at home somewhere abroad while her staff ran the show. Home as it turns out, is actually within the premises of the hotel. She walked over to an American couple who’d sat a few meters from us, we later learned they’d eloped and in a couple of days, she’d be officiating their wedding. ‘We’re known for our long table parties, we’ve reached about something million views’, proudly showing us the hotel’s Instagram page to which I admitted to being one of those viewers. Go on and watch the long table reel, I’d get married again there if I could or even celebrate a milestone birthday. I couldn’t help but admire her ability to connect with us (guests) as she sipped from her espresso cup telling us about the apartheid-era stories her father used to tell her as a child. I’d love to visit your country one day although I know not much has changed she said. When we mentioned where we were staying in Marrakech, she responded, ‘Well, next time you should come stay here’. And that was a move of a convincing business owner who believes in her work, Jnane Tasma for our next Morocco trip.
This exquisite, clearly well and creatively planned out hotel holds a homely tone yet spacious- in an unassumingly, but full of surprise way, from the moment you set foot. Its arches upon arches remind you of being in the medina, the blue sky looking over the naked ceilings with the high yellow walls. Bright tones, art pieces and materials worth skipping the long YSL museum queue. The gift of the hotel is it welcomes non-residents. Before our travels, I’d organised a birthday lunch for M which was straight forward and kind as they offered a surprise cake to be brought out, I had to kindly decline, seeing it impossible to have a whole cake to ourselves. By booking Pool Access at 480 MAD per person you’re catered to a three-course lunch, mineral water and access to the five pools. We used ‘the heated’ salt pool which was less cold but I wouldn’t put down to being heated, maybe the temperature increases when the days get cold, we were there early November 27℃ after all. Drinks come at an additional cost but they serve a long list of cocktails, and soft and hot drinks too. This is a place to visit if you’re looking for stress-free, elegance and style, soul and warmth.
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